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Near the equator, the sun goes down rather suddenly at about 6pm and then there are 12 hours of darkness, all year round. Apart from the sounds of insects, dogs and sometimes drumming from the villages, it is relatively quiet at night - quiet enough to hear far off lions roaring, and to hear the voices of fishermen in boats, using lanterns and hitting the sides of the canoes to attract the fish. One letter describes the “extraordinary feeling lying on one’s back with nothing over one but a sheet